Saturday, September 30, 2006

Dream Quiver #1

6' Dain Thomas Widowmaker
Not mine but I wish I had it yesterday.
Went for a low expectations surf, too lazy to drive to Porto so I hit Santa Monica and it wasn't nice at all, chest high, very walled and dumpy. I'm amazed by my own forced positivity- 'there's corners out there and I'm here, so...' Oddly enough, there were corners, it got quite ridable for 45 minutes or so and a sea fog rolled in so I couldn't see the buildings I line up on. I just drifted with the current, chased peaks and got a few decent lefts, a fun late drop on a closeout and even a speedy right. A nice morning without anyone within 100 yards of me and I was late to work. Right now I'm roasting pork and listening to Dean Martin. It's all good.

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