Sunday, January 31, 2010


Derek Hynd, finless at J-Bay by Roy Harley

There's a very cool little art gallery in Jeffery's Bay at Supertubes. It's called Surf Art, they have a website here and they carry some of our books. I find that really quite satisfying, some sort of weird connection, even though I may never go there, and I certainly know I'll never surf anything like Derek does.

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Yard Possum Ceilidh

It's that time again. The kind hearted folks at the Swift Movement are throwing open the doors to all and sundry on February 3rd and 4th, and will be displaying a very finely crafted array of surfboards, art and ephemera. This will take place at 340 16th St San Diego CA 92101. It's never been less than a wonderfully worthwhile night out with some sort of great musical entertainment, and as always it'll be a veritable potpourri of interesting folks from the non-mainstream of surfing. Come on by.

Sunday, January 24, 2010

Thread Monthly #4- Tom & Tom

Curren and Carroll, photos by Trefz from his 'Thread' book. $30 for a signed copy, info at

Thursday, January 21, 2010

The Vernal Pools Of South Los Angeles

My backyard is now full of them. The rain has kept me at the workstation mostly, and things are getting done. Emails are answered, blogs perused and I'm feeling caught up and in touch. I know the legendary Jamie Brisick is in Brazil and going to coffee museums with Jair. I know the next Swift event is approaching rapidly, Feb. 3 and 4 in the usual San Diego hideaway, art and surfboards galore. Details on that soon.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

GEF and Dogtown

all images Glen E. Friedman

Glen Friedman is in town, stoked as ever and checking some old haunts. The man is so excited by the new Venice Skatepark it's infectious, and who better to be among those giving the seal of approval to such a venture. He said everyone from 8 year old shredders to Pat Ngoho was there and ripping this weekend, and it's a great thing. He scribbled up some books too- there's a small stack of 'Dogtown- Legend Of The Z-boys' now signed by Glen and C.R. Stecyk. $35 each postpaid in the USA, and you can email info at to order. Dogtown has been good to me this week too, it's been home to some solidly good surf with size, tide and sandbars coming together perfectly at times. 5'5" mini Sim and 5'9" Mackie flextail gave me a run of exceptionally good sessions so I'm feeling good (if a little tired.)

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Mr. Lord discusses hard rails

Of course, due to winds and a bit of rain all I've been doing is some gardening and making marmalade. Ah well.

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Ether Monthly #8- Parmenter

Dave Parmenter surfing Victoria and shaping, all photos Kidman from the truly magnificent Ether. Available from info at foamandfunction.

'In the late ‘80s, my tourmates and I played a game called “Faces of Death,” in which we’d zap around beach towns in France, Spain, Portugal, and Australia pulling massive, screaming handbrake slides as close as possible to unsuspecting pedestrians, which drew some magnificent facial expressions as well as a few dives into nearby bushes. Once we pulled one on Top 16-ranked Dave Parmenter, who was notorious for his Clint Eastwood-like demeanor. Dave barely flinched. From this simulated near-death experience we concluded that he was the Real Deal.'

Jamie Brisick

Wednesday, January 06, 2010

Normal Transmission Is Resumed

Surfboards. They're fun. This one is a Fitzgerald Drifta. Sun of Sultan has a very decent blog here.

Saturday, January 02, 2010

High Desert New Year

My decade started with an epic blowout- hot rods, puppies, a roast pig, many libations, the great outdoors and some really good friends. Couldn't have been better and I hope yours was good too.