Wednesday, March 31, 2010


Who doesn't love surf art? Now the genius that is Mark Sutherland is available on a convenient T-shirt via You can also sign up for the monthly strip to be sent to you. Stoked. The photo is from another Australian, Paul the Simfreak. I could stand a setup like this.

Thursday, March 25, 2010

Ether Monthly #10- Stanley Pleskunas

Stanley Pleskunas, Central Cal 2005.
Photo Kidman from 'Ether', available by emailing info at

Pleskunas is another of those low key San Diego garage geniuses. He's affected your surfing whether you know it or not. He's designed simple shaping tools that are still the best for the job, he's worked on outrageously complex shaping machine designs. He builds 'Wibbulators', wild, thin and flexy boards that evolved from the cutting edge kiteboards he makes. He was also there at the birth of the fish. From the interview in 'Ether' conducted by Kidman and Kenvin.

AK: Can you tell us the whole story about the board in the cave?
SP: My memories of it are: it was a cold day and the surf was big. It was probably Christmas, and we'd just gotten short johns, the first wetsuits. Stevie (Lis) and I went out at Osprey. It was big; I was haired out, but I had to go. There was a guy out surfing, the tide was coming in, he lost his board and it went in the cave. It was too gnarly to go in there nd get it, especially without a pair of fins on. The guy swam in and he got out of the water, and we knew he left the board in the cave. So the next day the surf dropped, and we went down there , and we pulled the longboard out of the cave . We got a hammer under the glass and we peeled the glass off-worst itch I've ever had in my life! Then we sawed it in half, and then Stevie shaped a board and I shaped a board. He got the nose; he had the better rocker (laughs). Mine was terrible. That was the piece of foam that Stevie built the first fish from, that I remember. It was a bright red Fish. This first one had, kind of, spiky pins on it and it was really thin, double lap; black fins. Sort of peaky fins: a fin with a little tip on it, about the same base as it was high. I remember him surfing that, on the lefts at South Beach, and just ... ripping. That board was probably 4',4'2". Stevies a small guy, y'know?

RK: How about your first exposure to Greenough?
SP: The thing that nailed me was the article with Nat Young, Bob McTavish and George at Honolua. They had pictures of George riding. I was kneeboarding, and I'd heard rumors of him, right, and when I saw those pictures then I immediately tried to emulate, and shape, and build boards, and look for information. I mined information from everybody I knew, to try and figure out what those boards were and why they worked. I started building a few. I think, at the same time, that thing really kicked off the board building craze here y'know? The back yard thingin our area. I think, more than anybody in our area, I was kinda more on George's thing than some of the other people. Stevie was building the Fishes, and people understood what was going on by then, with Steve. But I was more on George's thing.

Saturday, March 20, 2010

Jon Wegener Blogs!

Nice. Jon Wegener, definitely one of the top ten nicest men in surfing, is blogging. Now that summer is creeping on, many a youngster's thoughts turn to hot days and little souths wrapping onto pointbreaks, and of course the alaias they plan on riding. Here's the source for the woody goodness. Those of us who are happy with the sideways slide we get with fins are still welcome, Jon shapes a mean foam craft. Still got some t-shirts too, I'm wearing one as I type and feel pretty good about it all.

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Kevlar rails, cold and a setup

Once again, thanks to Mick Mackie for providing some excellent imagery. I certainly could use that wave, but he's welcome to the roof of snow. Mad bastards to be wandering around in that stuff, but that's an Australian for you. I'm off for a surf finally.

Thursday, March 11, 2010

The Fish in it's glory...

Some time ago a surfshop owner told me the fish was 'over'. His logic was that everybody who wanted one had one by now, lots of people found them harder to ride than they expected and as it was a 'retro' board it wasn't one that was being replaced or upgraded in anyone's quiver. Never really was comfortable with that concept, and here's a selection of relatively current fish I've seen that vary from classic to ultra modern that I believe prove there's life in 'em yet. I've been having fun on one the last few weeks anyway.

Hynd Bushrat, worth clicking on to see the art.

Redwood Simmons inspired quad! SWEET! By Jeff Beck at Ninelights

Daniel Thomson quiver. Indeed.

Sidecut polisher's nightmare from Rob Royal.

Pure candy from Hank Warner. I'm going to go out on a limb and say Hank is basically THE man for an old school fish. He makes what I've found to be a magic board.

My other magic fish is of course a Mackie. This is someone else's magic fish, a textured deck sidecut I wish I'd been able to keep.

Check the water flow slot in this one from Reverb, and then check how nice that outline is.

Eli Mirandon made this 4" agave stringer job. It was the board I wanted most at the Ventura Sacred Craft show, felt absolutely perfect under the arm.

Sorry, an obvious shot but stuffed with lemon and rubbed with sea salt and oil then grilled, they were delicious.

Friday, March 05, 2010

Suave Garments

The ongoing winter of swell is still with us, another week of what were by all accounts decent waves but I only had a mere taste of it as the storage space needed attention so it was a week of labour. That's not really a complaint, maybe just a little whimper- there's been plenty of surf for all and an annoying task is dealt with. In the process I dragged out the last of the hoodies, as seen above. There's Simmons in heather, brown and black, OG Swift in heather or brown, Mackie in black and I believe a few Bernoulli equation in brown. All are front zip lightweight hoodies, ideal for the chill of early AM session, and $35 each. There's Casper shirts as well, blue for the ladies, seafoam green for the gents, very quantities numbers left so get 'em now, $25 each. Email info at or check the Foam& Function site, there's more shirt designs there and stocks are getting low. Fingers crossed the rain holds off until later in the day tomorrow and I may get a session in.

Tuesday, March 02, 2010

Tomo in Japan

Daniel Thomson has been a bit of a one man show of late. He turned up at Sacred Craft with just a banner and an armful of boards and blew people's minds, he's shaped and surfed a lot lately, and most recently turned up in Japan at a trade show with more boards but a rack and another banner this time- moving up in the world. Axxxe wetsuits helped him out, and they deserve whatever little plug I'm giving them as they make a damn fine custom wetsuit.