Saturday, February 17, 2007


Not my little black & white dog, but one belonging to a good friend. It's on Piha beach back home in New Zealand. This is the beach where I started surfing for real and learnt to love (?) the cold, arm-killing beachbreak. Areas of this beach are OK for dogs and the rules (clean up your dogs mess, don't let it hassle other beachgoers) are well respected. One end of the beach is off limits as there are penguin nesting sites and all too often visitors or new residents to the area disobey and baby penguins die.
This morning I went to a beachbreak. It was sunny, warm and little knee to waist waves were peeling. Unfortunately they peeled rarely and when they did it was in about knee deep water. I turned to go home and saw a man illegally walking his dog down the sand with no means of cleaning up the inevitable mess. I suppose they figure the water is so polluted a little more won't hurt. Dogged all round today.

Friday, February 16, 2007

Long Shot

If you happen to be in the vincinty of the northern portion of NSW, get a few surfs in down at Byron Pass then check this out. Dain's boards are ldownright awesome, so some shopping could be done as well.
No surfing today, the tide is high early and there's poo in the water. Getting close to a week since I've been in the water and I hate that. Need to get out of town again, maybe north while there's still a bit of swell bouncing around up there in central CA.

Wednesday, February 07, 2007


Santa Monica 1925

Saturday- Decent sized lumpy closeouts with much chop at El Porto
Sunday- Smallish but with a few corners and a beautiful day at SaMo. Much crowds though.
Wednesday- Solid sized, glassy and closing out. A few very fast corners on the inside, but couldn't get on a peak to save my life.

Ah well, there's always next week.