Saturday, September 30, 2006

Dream Quiver #1

6' Dain Thomas Widowmaker
Not mine but I wish I had it yesterday.
Went for a low expectations surf, too lazy to drive to Porto so I hit Santa Monica and it wasn't nice at all, chest high, very walled and dumpy. I'm amazed by my own forced positivity- 'there's corners out there and I'm here, so...' Oddly enough, there were corners, it got quite ridable for 45 minutes or so and a sea fog rolled in so I couldn't see the buildings I line up on. I just drifted with the current, chased peaks and got a few decent lefts, a fun late drop on a closeout and even a speedy right. A nice morning without anyone within 100 yards of me and I was late to work. Right now I'm roasting pork and listening to Dean Martin. It's all good.

Thursday, September 21, 2006


Two quick surfs in little waves, Sun and Mon. It managed to be waist high and dumping, but the weather was gorgeous, the water glassy and the crowds not too crowded for at least a short while. No surf for 2 weeks from Sat so I live it up this week. Went to the LA County fair and saw a giant steer and ate fried food, then that same night went to the Magic Castle and saw magic naturally. Pretty good week so far.

Wednesday, September 13, 2006


So I kissed the talented one and the little dog goodbye on Saturday morning, packed them off to work, threw the Lynch and the Fish in the back of the truck and south I went. It looked promising at Onofre, and Trestles was showing definite lines, so I left the 5 at Tamarack and things were good. Not great, but a lot better than LA has been for a while. Fun was had and waves with some push and a face that stayed open for more than 4 seconds were duly exploited. Reveling in the freedom of a wealth of breaks I ambled on and hit it again at Leucadia where I couldn't find the friends I was due to meet. Again fun although conditions had taken a knock and it was decidedly bumpy and blown. Still, nothing like staying low through the drop and getting that fish on a rail so it just powers out of the bottom turn. Even with average waves it was what it's all about- a beautiful day, warm, clear water and a few full throttle runs to keep me interested. (And a good one on the head, but you need that now and then.) Time was running short, the waves were getting worse so back on the road. Past so many spots I wanted to stop at- Solana, Cardiff, Swamis, La Jolla- but I was good and made it to SD only 45 minutes late. Mr. Kenvin had it wired there- ALL the Swift boards were represented- I'd happily ride every one of them and really need at least 5 of them. Absolutely beautiful craftsmanship on display, and along with the Swift array were gems like the board Pat Curren shapes in Glass Love and one of the Simmons replicas from Hydrodynamica. I hung out, talked flex and fins with Steve Pendarvis, listened to a gypsy band that were pretty good and had a fantastic time. There will be photos and more in further posts as I organize myself I'm sure, but believe me it was good.

Sunday, September 03, 2006


Garth Dickenson from 'Glass Love'

Couldn't be happier- new truck so I've been mobile the last week, at least some showing of swell- not the biggest or best shaped, but that's OK as the fish works and it was still nice, trunkable weather. I even scored Saturday parking spots and surfed 4 hrs yesterday. Besides the truck the time out of the water was due to work, and the Andrew Kidman book is go. A selection of Andrew's work from 85 to 06. Interviews, articles, photography, movie stills and even some of his lyrics. No final title yet but Andrew has sent a few images and they are awesome. (Like the shot of Garth above, riding a MIchael Mackie fish I believe.) It's a wy off, summer 2007, but damn it's going to be good.