Thursday, October 12, 2006


This time it's two weeks out (although really only one week now) and last Sat I had a fine morning to go out on. Porto looked sucky, Dockweiler was OK so checked Santa Monica on a tide hunch and it was OK, waist high with a few bigger ones and not dumpy. Crowded though, and it got more and more so. I'm a grumpy antipodean and don't understand the logic behind paddling out to sit right inside of someone. To make it worse the worst offenders talked loudly about their friend's surf art thing- 'A Surfer in Southern California'-very original, and how cool it was in 'Mex'. Crowds are one thing but lousy manners quite another. Still got some good rides and it felt fine. Since then I've tried (not too successfully) to be on the work and website stuff. I did the 'Way Of The Bird' page hence the shameless picture plug.

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