Wednesday, September 13, 2006


So I kissed the talented one and the little dog goodbye on Saturday morning, packed them off to work, threw the Lynch and the Fish in the back of the truck and south I went. It looked promising at Onofre, and Trestles was showing definite lines, so I left the 5 at Tamarack and things were good. Not great, but a lot better than LA has been for a while. Fun was had and waves with some push and a face that stayed open for more than 4 seconds were duly exploited. Reveling in the freedom of a wealth of breaks I ambled on and hit it again at Leucadia where I couldn't find the friends I was due to meet. Again fun although conditions had taken a knock and it was decidedly bumpy and blown. Still, nothing like staying low through the drop and getting that fish on a rail so it just powers out of the bottom turn. Even with average waves it was what it's all about- a beautiful day, warm, clear water and a few full throttle runs to keep me interested. (And a good one on the head, but you need that now and then.) Time was running short, the waves were getting worse so back on the road. Past so many spots I wanted to stop at- Solana, Cardiff, Swamis, La Jolla- but I was good and made it to SD only 45 minutes late. Mr. Kenvin had it wired there- ALL the Swift boards were represented- I'd happily ride every one of them and really need at least 5 of them. Absolutely beautiful craftsmanship on display, and along with the Swift array were gems like the board Pat Curren shapes in Glass Love and one of the Simmons replicas from Hydrodynamica. I hung out, talked flex and fins with Steve Pendarvis, listened to a gypsy band that were pretty good and had a fantastic time. There will be photos and more in further posts as I organize myself I'm sure, but believe me it was good.

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