Saturday, October 06, 2012

Delivery #1

Couldn't feel better. That epic Mackie is out of my house and no longer a temptation. The run north was smooth as silk; easy drive through wonderful late summer scenery- all tan hills and chaparral-y scents and just waiting for rain, a good fish dinner with surfer/shaper I have serious respect for, and the next AM there were waves to be had. Nothing spectacular, chest high and peaky fun which after 3 months of LA summer mush was like being given the keys to the funpark. I surfed until my arms gave out, then went back out on the bellyboard, then a last few attempts on some inside pocket waist high delights on the mini Sim, but I was largely done. The capper was mad good carnitas in Oxnard on the way home. Well pleased.

1 comment:

Corduroy Surfboards said...

Yesss ! I surfed today ..perfect chest high & me on a stand up ! Lets catch up soon , miss our rants ..hope you're well man xx