boards & waves

Waves courtesy of Ben who lives in Western Australia and boards courtesy of Ryan Burch who lives in some sort of weird future apparently. There were some waves here today, quite big ones at times too. Usual story, the points were a circus and the beachies mostly closing out. Unfortunately it looked better than it was, there were some corners off of head high waves, but there was a lot of water moving around so being in the right place at the right time was not easy, and the occasional sets of well over head high stuff kept you on your toes. Finally gambled too long and there was the set that was inescapable so some cartwheels were done and I called it a day. After weeks of soft, blown out 2 footers this was almost fun, and in a few days when it backs down a bit it will be fun for sure.