Thursday, October 26, 2006


Fooled myself on Weds. The long suffering Missus went shopping with a friend and I ran errands then made use of a free day to go North as the points have been good I'm told. None looked that good, next thing I'm at County Line so there I surf. All that driving and it really wasn't that great. OK size, shape not so great and sort of mushy. Longer rides for sure, but not any more fun than Friday at Santa Monica- different though, so I guess that counts and I liked the drive. Came home to the news that Porto had cleaned up and been pretty damn fun. These things happen.

Monday, October 16, 2006

doin' well

Bobby Piercy & Bunnies
Photo Glen E. Friedman- from 'Fuck You Too'

My 2 weeks out of the water ends soon and it's not been too bad as I doubt I would have been able to get in the water given the rain and the flat. I have managed to use the surfing time to do website work, hence the Glen picture.

Thursday, October 12, 2006


This time it's two weeks out (although really only one week now) and last Sat I had a fine morning to go out on. Porto looked sucky, Dockweiler was OK so checked Santa Monica on a tide hunch and it was OK, waist high with a few bigger ones and not dumpy. Crowded though, and it got more and more so. I'm a grumpy antipodean and don't understand the logic behind paddling out to sit right inside of someone. To make it worse the worst offenders talked loudly about their friend's surf art thing- 'A Surfer in Southern California'-very original, and how cool it was in 'Mex'. Crowds are one thing but lousy manners quite another. Still got some good rides and it felt fine. Since then I've tried (not too successfully) to be on the work and website stuff. I did the 'Way Of The Bird' page hence the shameless picture plug.