Joske's Bay from Surfing Life on Vimeo.
Heath Joske pulling a sould arch at J-Bay. This is what comes of surfing a sub 6' single fin that your brother shaped you for the weeks leading up to an international surf contest. Lovely work Heath. Meanwhile Jon Frank, Kidman's collaborator on 'Litmus' has been busy lately working with Mick Sowry, creator of the very lovely 'Musica Surfica'on a new project called 'The Reef' Below is a clip from it and it looks incredible.
Three of Andrew's Dreamboards, bound for the U.S. on the slow boat. If he keeps shaping them this nicely he'll be able to afford an indoor bath in no time. These Aussies are definitely doing some interesting stuff with surfboards right now, and Mr. Kidman is as always working like the proverbial drover's dog with a couple of nice projects in the works. We'll keep you updated, and as I know where one of those boards is going, I'll have a ride report at least, if not a loan of it.
The boss is a bit quiet at the moment as he's having some bones sorted out, but he's still delivering the goods. Decent little wave, couple of classic shapes, few experimental tails & keels and a pair of 6'4" sidecuts that involve EPS and carbon fibre panels/band stringers for some major responsiveness. A melding of classic design and hi-tech material that your serious Parisian graphic designer could appreciate as much as your central coast charger.
You have to bear with me a little on this one, it sort of makes sense. Not being from here, there's a lot of American stuff that I just don't get, and baseball is one of things. Despite a near complete lack of knowledge, I did learn of Dock Ellis who notoriously pitched a no hitter (which is good) while frying on LSD. Pretty wild, but I always thought the stories of Owl Chapman dosing up and surfing big Waimea were even crazier. Owl is one of those fantastic larger than life characters; he never seemed to care much about the civilian world and during the era of the transition to shortboards he just surfed and lived the life, which he still does to this day. He's a true underground shaper, making insane big wave boards for the deserving who can flush him out, and he still paddles out in the big stuff and charges. Thanks to Glen Friedman, I was recently turned onto the above clip from a proposed Dock Ellis documentary. Dock was well cool- a cocky, hair curler wearing bad ass deep in a mainstream professional sport. Like Owl, he was a true individual who chose no compromise as a lifestyle and had some serious skills to back his deal up- these are the sort of people who keep it all interesting, and I respect them for it.
The Dock doc is currently launching on Kickstarter, you can check it all out here as it's a worthy project.
From the top, the photos are:
Owl and MP by Peter Crawford.
Owl at Pipeline by Art Brewer.
Owl at Sunset by Andrew Kidman.
Glen 'Jnr. bad ass' Friedman and Dock Ellis.
First Annual Revolver Vintage Single Fin Shoot Out from John Eldridge on Vimeo.
First up is the recent Revolver Single Fin Shootout footage via John Eldridge's vimeo. Looks like fun in Cornwall with better waves than I've seen lately- I do like that Hot Buttered single that Jimbo is holding early in the clip.JOHNNY ABEGG RETURNS TO TASMANIA from Little House Productions on Vimeo.
Here's Johnny Abegg in his homeland of Tasmania, filmed by Mick Waters. Both great lads, and both responsible for some fine movies. If you don't have "___" or Little Black Wheels you should email us at info @ foamandfunction.com and get them. This is just how it looks all summer at the local- crap waves but plenty of choreographed dancing and bathing suited lovelies.
From the ever classic Ben of Scarborough comes some fantastic shots of his teenaged nephew Eli putting a 6' widowmaker to the purpose it was intended for. Eli's dad Simon took the photos somewhere in the southern reaches of the West Island and after a couple of days spent flailing around in soft windswell I'm unspeakably jealous. Love Eli's pose on lip too, it's good to see there's smart arse 30 year olds flying the flag of unbeatable confidence.
Cornwall & Devon goes to NYC.
Wegener epicness.
Paipo, bellyboard- whatever. They are fun. Madly fun. My initiation came via the mighty J. Isaacs of Cornwall and Sally of the Original Surfboard Company
, both enthusiastic proponents of the bellyslide. What initially seemed like part of the sideshow proved to be much more. Almost any surf becomes rideable with a bellyboard, and a decent day is always enhanced by a few slides on the ply. At the end of this past winter, I swam out on a head high day with a board like the one in the top picture (at the NYC Fish Fry- stolen from Aquatic Apes) and turned a fun session into a magic day. The climbing tide meant the outer sandbar started delivering closeouts, not so fun on a 6' fish but on 4' of ply it was an absolute frolic- face peeling drops, ricochets off whitewater, cackling out loud. It was like being 9 again and having mad skills on the KFC foamy- utter oceanic joy. Jon Wegener's paipos are another strand of the same thread, absolutely lovely little craft. Jon is one of nature's noblemen too (largely due to the civilizing effects of his wife Rosa), and his efforts towards a truly green surfboard are humbling. It's definitely one of those moments when I'm proud to be a surfer.
