a day at the beach

Among The Heathens

2012-02-01T11:59:00.000-08:00

Here's a brief respite from the world of upmarket museum sponsored art shows. Young Mackie took the family on vacation to a semi-civilised Pacific isle, and appeased the natives by knocking out a few very fine surfboards. Bit of a busman's holiday but I imagine his family are well used to that and there's now 4 excellent boards in some lucky foreign hands.

Hydro Show 1

2012-01-29T10:43:00.001-08:00

Top Down:
Daniel Thomson & Carl Ekstrom talk design. Carl was well impressed by Daniel's newer boards.
Some old Simmons wood.
Carl's models.
The good old days.
Daniel's board that was blowing a few minds.

It was well worth the drive south, if only to hang out and talk surfboards with Daniel Thomoson and RT in fancier surroundings than usual. Incredible looking show, 'museum quality' as they say. From the original Simmons through Ekstrom and Mirandon experiments in the 60s to Lis and Frye and experimental 70s madness to where Burch and Tomo and the like are taking surfboards now, it was an intelligently curated meander down one of surfing's myriad design pathways. Show's up for a couple of months, so if you can get to San Diego in that time, go check it out. The entrance is at 325 15th St, San Diego CA 92101 and it's open Tues-Sat 10-4.

Hydrodynamica- Remember The Future

2012-01-26T09:49:00.000-08:00

As you've hopefully seen, this weekend is the opening of the Hydro show that's tied into the Getty 'Pacific Standard Time' shows. The theme here is obviously surfboard design, especially that of Bob Simmons, as a continuum of post war Californian design as a whole. RK has assembled a pretty serious array of boards and if you cabn't make the opening, the show is totally worth checking out at some time during it's run. I'll definitely take some pictures, and of course the above shots come from Andrew Kidman's brilliant Ether book.

Loft 9 Gallery
1340 16th St
San Diego CA 92101

Y Niwl

2012-01-21T10:37:00.000-08:00

Personally, I really don't like surf music that much. Or at all really. Ventures etc bore the hell out of me and I can't even be bothered with the Beach Boys, even the vaguely psych ones you're meant to like. There are exceptions of course, Dick Dale, Davie Allan (more biker rock though I suppose), Agent Orange- all have moments of great fun. The modern garage rock boom produced some great surf-ish stuff from weird places like Japan, and now this- North Wales' finest surf combo, Y Niwl. Appaently they are killer live too. Sourced from the mighty Sideburn magazine blog, another of the sites that made me start doing this, so complain to them if you must. In case it isn't obvious, the surf and weather aren't co-operating so I'm wasting free time the internet and a couple of stacks of records.

Boards of 2011, Mick Mackie Edition

2012-01-13T23:40:00.000-08:00

Ulladulla's own gets a special post because he delivers some absolutely epic surfcraft and keeps flowing photos that make me want to drain the bank account in order to have an unrivaled quiver. I like them well enough that I not only ride them 2 out of 3 sessions, but I try to help him sell a few. Making your beach experience better is our aim. From the top down:

21st Century Flextail- possibly the boards I covet most, simple as that.

Stinger swallowtail- OK, there's a lot of reasons why stingers were not a lasting surfboard design, but this thing looks like it'd be a screamer on a clean point wave,

Pintail- I have no info, just this picture so in my head this is a 6'6" or so single fin, beaked nose and just the step up you need when it gets over head high.

No dims or info on this one either but another fantastic looking board. I'm hoping there's a tri or quad set up underneath this and it's 6'.

Stub- The traditional single fin hull adherents will hate me for this, but I prefer the modernized version. This one is EPS and with a quad or 2+1 setup, I believe it would be what they term a 'goer'.

Twin Keel Sidecut- A design Mick has worked with and honed for over a decade. Twin or quad, it's a fish taken a step or two beyond what you can usually get from a fish. As much as I enjoy a classic twinnie, these boards have basically replaced traditional fish for me.

Each to their own and freedom for all, but no machine or popout is going to be able to bring you the creative flow that someone like Mackie has going on. It's the likes of him and all the other hand crafting innovators that keep the surfboard fresh, and I for one am incredibly thankful for that.

Serious down the line speed

2012-01-10T10:55:00.000-08:00

Awesome, Christmas day comet photos from Tomo. What a great start to the year for those of you lucky enough to see them. In some sort of clumsy aquatic comet type link, check out the Mat Tube Challenge that's been inaugurated over here at the massively stoked Ramsnake's blog. Rubber riders should get on this one- I think I'll try for some shots on the bellyboard and enter, then cry surfcraft racism when I don't win. Or maybe just get the mat out there......

AND AN UPDATE: No mat? No worries! Tomo has a special going here. Get on it, and send me a few good tube photos too.

Burningflags.com

2012-01-06T09:44:00.000-08:00

Mike Muir and Jim Muir pose for a Thrasher promotion we did, circa 1983

One of my early surf photos, shot at what was then probably the biggest surf contest in the North-East at Seaside Heights NJ- I got my first surf shot published from this same day, in Surfer magazines 20th Anniversary issue. Kevin Casey is the rider, circa 1978

Darryl 'Buffy' Robinson (RIP) of The Fat Boys in Venice holding my board circa 1984

Black Flag outside their office/home SST in Redondo Beach CA- their strongest lineup in my opinion. Circa 1984

The Beastie Boys, with Sean Penn and David Lee Roth at Madonna's first ever gold record party. This was in Los Angeles the day before or after they opened for Madonna on the 'Like A Virgin' tour, 1985.

In the beginning there was GEF. Really- my friend Craig and I wound up putting out books because we felt Glen's book need to be available, and now all these years down the line we're all still at it. Glen has just launched his official site, Burningflags.com and it's been worth the wait, filled with all sorts of bits and pieces of much interest. It's an incredible look at subcultures that meant a lot to me anyway, and all from the perspective of someone who was not only there but deeply involved and documenting it all wisely. Glen shared the above shots from the site, captions are his and don't forget we have his books available should you need something epic for the book shelf. Contact info @ foamandfunction.com and we'll set you up.

Boards That Caught My Eye, 2011

2011-12-31T09:35:00.000-08:00

No particular order, no Mackies as I see enough of his boards to do an entirely seperate post (which I undoubtedly will do). Every one of these boards made me want to go and surf, and I am hoping that this coming year brings a little cash flow so I can invest in the culture and buy one of these- I'm jonesing for a new board, it's been a while.

From The Top:
Jeff Beck ModdTwin- wood skin over an EPS core. Slight cheat, I've been riding a loaner one of these a lot, and it's a fantastic board- light, responsive and has a lovely stiff twangy flex to it- epic board for the local crap beachbreaks.

Daniel Thomson Weighted Dart- Felt absolutely lethal under the arm, all kinds of double tail action with the V and channels- Tomo Jnr. is innovation at it's best.

Andrew Kidman's classic thruster interpretation- probably the board I'm most obsessed by- this is the thruster from when they were fun- Simon Anderson influenced template, no bells and whistles but it looks like it would be madly fun to ride.

Original Surf Company Bellyboard- I did get new rides this year, a brace of these things. 4' of ply and it's the most perfect allrounder ever. I break it out for a few belly slides at the end of every session and always exit the water grinning like a Cornish yokel who's been at the cider.

Alan Byrne channel bottom madness- enough said.

Jeff Ho L.A. shape. Again, nothing too flashy but a board that instantly felt right- a bit wider and thicker for us older gents, tri or quad set up and away you go. 6'2" or so tri and I think it'd be a daily driver.

Reverb's round tail quad- I'm a recent convert to the quads and this looks like the business- bit of area in the tail and very clean racy lines. Some South American is really happy with this I bet.

Norte

2011-12-27T00:13:00.001-08:00

Hope you all got some sort of holiday and enjoyed it. Mine was short and involved a lot of driving, but it also involved some countryside that is still spectacular after many visits, a thoroughly enjoyable time in some very cold but playful surf, great seafood and evening in front of an outdoor log fire. No complaints at all.

The Pig Of Steel

2011-12-20T00:52:00.001-08:00

This may seem monumentally obtuse to the non-Antipodean readers out there (and what the visitor from Espoo, Southern Finland will make of it all is beyond me) but Captain Goodvibes is a total legend, and his greatest moments are now available in a 400 pg book from his creator, Tony Edwards. Superbly offensive, stupid and morally bankrupt, the Captain was a drug addled surfing pig with a fondness for nuclear explosions who, in the words of Mr. Edwards, 'soured thousands of young lives, stealing the promise of a bright future from their tiny hands.' Certainly as a tender youth the Goodvibes strips I came across were a revelation, and they remain brilliant today- I believe I will get this for myself as a Christmas present. Thanks to Kidman for the heads up and the Peter Troy book looks great as well.

Field Trip.

2011-12-15T23:37:00.001-08:00

Spent a chunk of the afternoon with Carl Ekstrom being completely entertained. He's doing such an array of projects it's a bit overwhelming just checking them out- definitely a design polymath at work here. Best thing is his setup is completely organized, functional and quite elegant. I walked into his living room and it was exactly as pictured- handmade fireplace with model display, ergonomic (and extremely comfortable) chair, couple of gloss and polish asyms on the floor as he's giving their tails some thought. If you're in Hawaii you're stoked too, downstairs there were 2 nearly finished boards ready to head to the Surf Garage in Honolulu. An afternoon well spent.

Fins & Jay Boy

2011-12-12T23:11:00.000-08:00

I am apparently losing my memory in my old age. Here's two things I forgot- when I put up the pictures of the new Mackie a few posts back, I neglected to put shots of the fin, which is a hand foiled flex fin. It's $850, but it comes with a 6'3" S deck stub to attach it to.

I also forgot to put this in the books for christmas array. 'Jay Boy', photos from Jay Adams' childhood taken by his step dad Kent Sherwood. It's an awesome look at the pre Dogtown Venice surf/skate culture. $25, shipping included. Email info @ foamandfunction.com and gift needs can be solved

Christmas Reading

2011-12-10T09:12:00.000-08:00

A few more gift selections from our output.
Patrick Trefz 'Thread' photobook $30 (Signed copies available)
Andrew Kidman & Andy Davis 'Way Of The Bird' $25
Glen E. Friedman & C.R. Stecyk III 'Dogtown' $35 (Signed copies available)
Glen E. Friedman 'KYEO' Fugazi photobook $30
and of course, the mighty 'Ether' by Kidman. Signed & Numbered, limited to 1050 copies
$175
Shipping inside the US is included in the price, foreign friends add $5 per book, a bit more for Ether -email for details.
info @ foamandfunction.com
There's more info in the Foam and Function site 'Books' page too.

Wwaarrbblleess

2011-12-07T16:04:00.001-08:00

All photos by RT via his blog.

I'm not telling you anything you don't already know I'm sure, but the above clip which comes via RT is utterly fantastic. He has an aesthetic going on that is very much his own, and it's all over his Warbles blog as well as his film work. To be honest, Warbles was one of the things that got me up and doing this blog although whether that's good or not I leave up to you. Either way, RT is a lovely bloke and I'm thankful he does what he does. Enjoy.

Christmas Viewing

2011-12-04T11:08:00.000-08:00

Although we don't have a cute marketable name like 'cyber monday', it's time to throw our offerings into the Xmas present arena. Should you be looking for a little something for like minded friends, here's the current array of film available (posed haphazardly on a couple of very nice hooded sweatshirts, only $35 each, Simmons design available in grey, black and brown). The rundown is: 'Last Hope' collection, Kidman's 'Glass Love', 'Thread' and 'Idiosyncrasies' by Patrick Trefz, John Abegg's "___" and 'Believe' and 'Little Black Wheels' from Mick Waters (both these titles are numbered). Cost is very simple, a mere $25 per title, shipping included. The only exception is the fancy limited version of "___" which is $30 for the zine/DVD and $50 for the book/DVD. To order, simply email us at info@foamandfunction.com and we'll set you up with some cinematic brilliance. Here's a nice little taste of it all, Axxe Wetsuits promo shot by the hard working Mr. Waters and featuring the usual suspects amongst others.

And should you be interested in Andrew Kidman's fast disappearing 'Lost In The Ether' film, go here.
Should you be interested in some incredible woodcraft and/or photography, you can't go past Joe Curren who even has a christmas offer going.

As always, these are all independent artists, filmmakers and craftsmen promoted here, and your support is what keeps them working and providing this quality entertainment for us all. Thanks.

Submerge

2011-12-02T09:18:00.000-08:00

Ulladulla is a place that has drawn some entertaining and creative types out of the woodwork, and Dean Dampney would definitely be one of them. He's a very talented photographer, and he surfs. (Of course, you'd be mad not to with the sort of waves those guys get) Most recently it seems he's been surfing an alaia which certainly earns my respect. The above shot is one of Dean's, and it's the tail of a finless creation from Mark Rabbidge that Dean was lucky enough to session. Dean's website Submerge has just been rejiggered and it's looking great, a selection of photos with little essays accompanying them, just the stuff that makes the internet fun.

And if you're lucky enough to be in Santa Cruz or thereabouts, go to this. It'll be good, Trefz is involved along with an array of local talent and you'll be supporting the efforts of independent creative types while having a blast.

Fishlips!

2011-11-29T00:00:00.001-08:00

You all know Mark Thomson as a controversial speed blur on a mat, but he's also a hell of a shaper and quite a free thinking one at that. He does a lot with carbon fiber which is fine by me. This here is twin tip drongo with a reverse nose, and it's only a peek at what Mark's got going on in the shed.

Mackie 6'3" S-deck Stub For Sale

2011-11-24T16:18:00.001-08:00

Yes, yes and yes indeed. Brand new Mackie collected from the courier not an hour or so ago. 6'3" x 21.5" x 2.75" S-deck single fin with a volan deck patch, $850. Quite a lovely thing, you could carve your turkey with those rails and probably shave with the hand foiled flex fin. Outstanding, young Michael Mackie is an absolute craftsman. Happy Thanksgiving indeed. Email info @ foamandfunction.com for more info.
(Excuse the photos as it's a holiday and I've been at the Buffalo Grass Vodka.)

Snowskates

2011-11-23T12:35:00.000-08:00

A nice few minutes of pre-Holiday shenanigans via Kevin of December Snowskates and his friends at Boyd Hill. This looks fun, especially if you get one of those outfits.

Windy Hills

2011-11-18T09:55:00.000-08:00

She Was A Girl by The Windy Hills from Andrew Kidman on Vimeo.

Incoming

2011-11-15T10:12:00.001-08:00

'It's a little bit hull, a little bit Greenough and a little bit me'

6'3" single fin S-deck from Mick Mackie. Has a nice volan deck patch and a custom flexfin. It should be in my hands in a week or so, and it can be in your hands for a mere $850. More photos when it lands, email info at foamandfunction.com for the full skinny.

A Few More....

2011-11-12T10:38:00.001-08:00

More Mackie stuff, it's just that there's been a wealth of images coming from that quarter and he got in touch yesterday to let me know there's a new board nearly done and soon to be on it's way up here. For a change, it's not a twin. Pictures soon, this one is going to be a beauty.

Simon & MIck by Andrew

2011-11-09T21:59:00.001-08:00

Simon Anderson and Mick Mackie got together for a session, Mick with his new flextail boards which apparently impressed Simon. Pretty serious crew to surf with, thanks to Kidman for the photos. He's been keeping his site fresh with new photos, well worth checking out here. If you haven't scored a copy of 'Lost In The Ether' then now's the time to do it- there's not a lot left.

If you're in the vicinity of Wilmington NC this weekend, don't forget that Mick Waters' 'Little Black Wheels' will be playing at 7.15pm on Saturday at the Soapbox. If you aren't in NC you can still get a signed copy of the movie from us, $25 shipping included. Email info @ foamandfunction.com to order or ask questions.

Winter

2011-11-06T10:37:00.000-08:00

To the north of us, it's starting to kick in seriously. Photos via Nils in France.

And to the south of us, it's over but went out with a bit of a bang dumping snow and sending a decent late season swell that lit up a few spots. These photos via Mick Mackie. Here in the middle, it's cold and raining. Always bodes well for a few solid NW's coming in...

Tomo & The Mighty Bellyslide

2011-10-31T23:44:00.000-07:00

Just in case you've not come across this elsewhere, here's Mark Thomson in high speed action. 11 minutes long, but worth the time- kick back with the morning coffee and get stoked. If you get really stoked, don't forget Tomo's mat deal- $195 shipping included. Email us at info @ foamandfunction.com and we'll set you up. Some of that footage was shot by Mick Waters, who's 'Little Black Wheels' is getting a nice honor with a screening at the Cucalorus Independent Film Festival in Wilmington, NC. We have signed DVDs of the film available too, and couldn't be happier for Mick. Now if only there was some swell.....

3 Fins & Panel V

2011-10-28T23:17:00.001-07:00

Here's one Andrew Kidman made for his kiwi mate Brett, who has a few decent waves in his neighbourhood. Simon Anderson template as a starting point, local footie club colours, Kidman illustration of your break on the deck- can't go much wrong with that.

A Few More From Sacred Craft

2011-10-25T00:56:00.001-07:00

Business end of a butterknife. You'll be seeing more of this soon I promise.

surfboards

Daniel Thomson in the Shaping Bay

...and one not from Sacred Craft. My current all purpose quiver.

My computer seems to be back online and working famously. Emails will be replied too, things will be caught up. A few more from the surfboard show- between never having time to wander off and shoot photos and losing most of the meager few I did take when the hard drive died, I'm stoked to have these. Honestly wasn't that impressed by a lot of what I saw, it seemed to be fancy glass jobs more than anything else really. There was some good stuff though (Henry Hester's 80's asym in the Rusty booth was one of the best I thought, but I lost that photo sorry) and there was a nice range of shapes represented, so it definitely seemed to be a something for everyone situation. It's easy to be cynical about the Sacred Craft, but it serves a nice purpose and seems to stoke plenty of people out. I get to hang out with Jon Wegener and Mark Thomson in the same building, so you know I'm having a good time.

Bellyyyyyyyyyyy!

2011-10-22T10:30:00.000-07:00

Who knew that roughly 4' x 1' of very beautifully bookmatched Zebrano wood ply would be mad surf fun? In a early 20th century style no less? A couple of posts back I raved about the new daily driver quiver, and here's half of it explained. The lovely Mr. John Isaacs Esq. of Cornwall set this up and I'm deeply thankful to him. A couple of emails to Sally of the Original Surfboard Company and much to my surprise a box of board arrived. Built by a UK boatbuilder and a continuation of a fine English tradition, the board is a total screamer in the water. It took a couple of waves to dial in some technique and then it was away- waist high closeouts become madly exciting and a waist high peeler is a total playground. The ladies do love it too, as John's photos above show and from the utter joy on the faces of the faces of the two cute young things who borrowed it for a few waves last weekend, the boards a winner. Many thanks to those responsible, and expect a few more prone posts as this thing gets a West Coast tour.

Important News From The House Of Gonad

2011-10-17T20:02:00.001-07:00

When you get an email with a subject line like that post title, you know it's going to be good and indeed it was. Man of the people, Mark Sutherland, has made access to the mighty Gonad Man strips absolutely free! Yes, at his site www.gonadman.com the complete adventures of the testicular hero, both old and new, are now available for your perusal. Laugh, wonder and be vaguely offended as Gonad Man takes on the sacred cows of surf culture with all sorts of nudity, foul language and giant dolphin turds. You can then shop some fine 'nad merchandise like the above T-shirt design and bring the wonder to your family, friends and workmates. Onya Sutho, you're a beaut.

Winterstik & Belly

2011-10-15T11:59:00.001-07:00

Best Day At The Beach in a long while came courtesy of the two above craft. After a bit of frustration on a 'regular' board in waist to belly high waves of no distinction I broke out the Winterstik influenced Mackie, recently finned up with some lovely keels courtesy of the well talented Jeff Beck. No expectations, I doubted the thing would float me let alone ride OK, but wanted to be the first to get it wet. Wrong- it paddled well, got into waves with amazing ease and rode fast and buttery smooth. On the small faces I got, it felt rompingly fun. Stoked, it's my new favourite board after a couple of surfs, and I can't wait to try it in a decent wave. As the tide dropped and my arms gave out, I shifted to the very fine Zebrano Wood Bellyboard that came courtesy of The Original Surfboard Company of the UK. ONe wave in and this thing is such a keeper, somewhere between a mini paipo and a bodysurf, the ride is fast and fun and I got pitted on a barely waist high wave. The board now lives in my truck and will be seeing some serious water time. More belly photos and info soon, it deserves a post of it's own. Definitely one of those days when you realise how fun playing in the water is.

Sacred Craft Pt 1 and a dead hard drive

2011-10-11T19:55:00.000-07:00

Tomo tail. I covet this board deeply.

Asymmetry 1- Ekstrom. Enough said.

Asymmetry 2- RK's daily driver by Burch

Asymmetry 3- Daniel's board from the shape off. He did win 'Best In Show' quite deservedly, and this thing, based on Polynesian canoe design was utterly incredible.

9'6" Twin Keel gun by Christian Beamish- AMAZING!

Yeah, thanks Macintosh for another fine product. Posts may be sporadic while they fix the machine again and I scrounge time on other folk's computers. Sacred Craft was great, thanks to those who came by and said Hey, extra thanks to the brilliant guys at Foam E-Z who brought a shipping box down for me. Customer service of the very best kind.

Tomo!

2011-10-05T12:41:00.000-07:00

Some surfers live for landing that air reverse, some for the many second nose ride, me however, I love that feeling of laying into a turn and this my friends, is one hell of a turn Mark Thomson is laying into. The man himself will be here for Sacred Craft with a suitcase full of mats (he even leaves his shoes behind so he can bring more) and the most infectious and unmitigated stoke ever. If you want a mat and can't make it to Del Mar this coming weekend, send an email and we'll put Tomo in touch with you. Then you can go out and try this sort of stuff.
This is part one of the Sacred Craft finless fun too, more soon.

Little Black Wheels is here!

2011-10-03T23:41:00.000-07:00

Well done the Post Office, a parcel of cinematic goodness arrived from Australia quickly and intact. Now in stock, DVD copies of Mick Waters' 'Little Black Wheels'. It's a lovely film, a paen to road trips and sun and family and good surf. Mick put the pregnant missus, the toddler and the dog in a camper and went wandering the Australian coast for some months. Naturally he ran into all sorts of fine surfers- Dain Thomas, Mick Hughes, Danny Wills, Rasta and of course Johnny Abegg amongst many others- and documented it all. There are beards and alternative surfcraft, but the film is the better for them. It's limited to 1000 copies and so is signed and numbered, and comes in a nice digipack for $25, shipping inclued. Mick being the generous and cheerful guy he is has also sent CD copies of the Orange Bird EP so you get a free one with every DVD. There's also a few 'Believe' T-shirts, all in this nice sky blue, which are also $25 shipping included, or $20 if you buy one with the DVD. Awesome. To order or ask questions, just email inf0 @ foamandfunction.com.

Photo by Dean Dampney

2011-10-01T23:41:00.001-07:00

Some weeks ago I ran a photo I thought was taken by Mick Mackie, but was in fact from Dean Dampney, a central NSW photographer who let me know the photo was his, and steered me towards his website and his other work. It was one of those fortuitous mistakes as his other photos are, like one I poached, really good. Here's a few more and the site is definitely worth looking at, he has a lovely clean black & white aesthetic going on and some great material to shoot. Once again I am thankful for the wonders the internet shares with us.

So Much Quality...

2011-09-29T10:21:00.000-07:00

All images via Mackie, and that's him putting a flextail into a very tidy turn in the first image. Much goodness on it's way from the remnants of the British Empire, ostensibly for Sacred Craft but it will all be displayed for sale here too. There's been waves here too which is a bit of a capper to it all. If I can squeeze a couple more sessions out of this swell combo I'll be well pleased.

Sacred Craft, Ekstrom, Mackie & More...

2011-09-24T23:14:00.001-07:00

It's Sacred Craft Surfboard Show time again, October 8 & 9 at the Del Mar Fairgrounds. Not only is Carl Ekstrom this year's honoree but he's kindly offered up a spot in his booth for us to display our wares. Not only will Carl undoubtedly have some exceptional boards but there will be books, there will be shirts, there will be films and there will be some surfboards from Mick Mackie for people to check out and buy should they desire. The above HP Sidecut fish will be there- 6' x 20" x 2 5/8" of handshaped EPS joy for only $800. There will also hopefully be a few bonus items from our friends across the pond in the UK, but more on that as it gets sorted out. It'll be a fun show definitely. We're even expecting a one man Australian contingent and he usually brings swell so here's hoping....

Little Black Wheels

2011-09-21T09:12:00.000-07:00

After a bit of time due to Mick being a man on the move, we've finally got this sorted out. Copies of 'Little Black Wheels' will be available in the US very soon, as soon as the post office get them here in fact. It's a lovely film, I'll let you know prices as soon as we sort them out.

A little more Derek Hynd

2011-09-17T09:49:00.000-07:00

Yes, that board did fly once he was done with it. Some lovely philosophizing from Derek as well as a few outrageous speed runs. I love the floater 360s too. Again, thanks to the Surfer's Journal for making this available.

No Fins Good

2011-09-15T00:36:00.000-07:00

A bit more Kidman, this time filming mad bastard Derek Hynd knocking the fins of a channeled asym with one of the better surf video soundtracks ever. More Harry Partch than Kraftwork I'd say Derek. This thing will be interesting in the water for sure. Video courtesy of the Surfer's Journal site, which is predictably good as always.

Three Fins Good

2011-09-11T10:32:00.000-07:00

Kidman, at North Narra on the 6'6" thruster Simon Anderson shaped him. It's based on THE board, the one Simon won Bells on in '81. (The one with the blue deck on the left.) So many layers of stuff going on there it's amazing, and Andrew still manages to lay a decent turn down.

The September of Australians

2011-09-09T00:29:00.000-07:00

Ah the Aussies- they talk funny, they drink all your beer and they've been scoring all the good surf of late. At least they haven't been letting it go to waste, and they've been very good indeed about sharing the documentation. The inbox is full of image files so it'll be a decidedly aussie-centric month. Mick Mackie has been extra good with the high grade material, there will undoubtedly be a post a week involving him, so why not start there? Couple of sleek looking fish, very tidy stub with volan inlay, an exotic flex experiment- this stuff is golden, and we're just getting started. Go see Steiny tonight if you're in San Francisco.

And immediately the Australians are sorting me- that top photo is in fact by Dean Dampney. Entirely my fault, I plucked it from batch Mick sent and figured it was one of his. This is why you ask these things. I liked it well enough to use it first, and after checking Dean's website Submerge I can at least say I've got good taste- his photos are pretty amazing and worth a look. Sorry Dean, but feel free to share a few more- we'll give you full credit for here on.

Garage Sale Steiny

2011-09-06T09:42:00.000-07:00

Central Cal. charmer and all round legend Steiny is part of the Garage Sale Project. That means if you're anywhere near San Francisco this weekend you can score a fine addition to your art collection (or better yet, start an art collection) at a very reasonable price by going to between 730 & 740 San Jose St, SF CA 94110 on Friday (7-10pm) or Saturday (12-4). There will be photos and the like for sale, and Steiny will be the tall well dressed chap with the good stories. Do say hello to him.

boards & waves

2011-09-01T23:22:00.001-07:00

Waves courtesy of Ben who lives in Western Australia and boards courtesy of Ryan Burch who lives in some sort of weird future apparently. There were some waves here today, quite big ones at times too. Usual story, the points were a circus and the beachies mostly closing out. Unfortunately it looked better than it was, there were some corners off of head high waves, but there was a lot of water moving around so being in the right place at the right time was not easy, and the occasional sets of well over head high stuff kept you on your toes. Finally gambled too long and there was the set that was inescapable so some cartwheels were done and I called it a day. After weeks of soft, blown out 2 footers this was almost fun, and in a few days when it backs down a bit it will be fun for sure.

Normal Transmission Is Resumed

2011-08-27T01:20:00.001-07:00

Boards and waves time. This week there weren't really waves to speak of (again) but a jaunt to Ninelights Surfboards headquarters was made. A project was dropped off (more soon) and the amazing compsand modtwin was walked off with. Waves are coming supposedly, but I didn't mention that to Jeff as I strolled out with his handiwork.

From Mackie, a nice little peak and a shiny stunner of a classic sidecut fish.

Tomo, getting utterly mat barreled. If you'd like one of his mats, let us know- $195, shipping included to wherever you are. email info @ foamandfunction.com and we'll sort it out.

From another matter- somewhere on the hurricane coast last year. Hope you're all hanging in there OK Jamie

And there you go, boards, waves and some bonus mats. We try to deliver on promises.

Image Free

2011-08-25T00:42:00.000-07:00

It's been a long day and it involved a complete lack of swell, very large Nigerians, outrageously beautiful Hyderabadi's, Lebanese Arak and 3 Weber grills amongst other things. I promise there will be a post of awesome waves and jaw dropping boards within 48 hours, but for now I bring you simple genius. Go here to vote for Mick Waters' segment featuring Dave Rastovich in the Innersection thing. Mainstream surf movies need more of this. Go here for Jamie Brisick, New Orleans and the One Minute Disco- this is truly fabulous stuff. Thank you for looking, you people are great.

wood & foam

2011-08-20T11:35:00.000-07:00

The boards we like are definitely all from the more unusual end of surfcraft, but not all of them are hi-tech or high end. Case in point, Kevin at December Snowskates has been building what look like some very fun rides. His initial experiments involved spray foam and a couple of sheets of ply and rode well apparently. He's stepped up the game to real foam and ply and we await test reports. Homemade ingenuity at it's best here.

Oska

2011-08-15T09:46:00.000-07:00

I'm going north for a couple of days, no surf but some surf related business might get done along with a bit of relaxing. In the meantime, here's Ozzy Wright being one of the most watchable surfers around today.

Wood

2011-08-13T00:07:00.001-07:00

Meanwhile, on the shores of good old Blighty, they have waves and are tearing it up on some truly old school sleds even as the Squire is knocking out some 21st century versions. World Bellyboard Champs are coming up- how much fun would a surf contest that features a cake bake-off be? This is all absolutely non corporate and quite fantastic surf frolics, and we hope to have offer a few gems from Revolver available here in the USA very soon.

Merch

2011-08-10T15:01:00.000-07:00

A few summer treats for those that may want them. Of course the mighty Ether book, and posed seductively on the December Snowskates board ($239) you have from left to right: Point Never zine ($5), 'Thread' book ($30 signed by Trefz), 'Jay Boy' book ($20) and the Johnny Abegg "___" dvd ($30 as zine, $50 as spiralbound book). All perfect ways to while away a bit of the summer (or winter for our Southern Hemisphere compatriots). Shipping is included in the price, email info @ foamandfunction to order or ask questions.

Rastovich & Waters

2011-08-06T08:36:00.000-07:00

Lovely- our friend Mick Waters (who made 'Believe' and 'Little Black Wheels', two films you should own) has done a clip for the Taylor Steele 'Innersections' thing. Rasta riding all manner of stuff with outrageous style. You can check it out by following this link- http://innersection.tv/video/379 and please feel free to sign up and vote for it- as with Trefz's clip it's fantastic to see something 'alternative' make it into a mainstream film deal. I'd also like to point out that apparently the reason we have no waves is because the Australians have been taking them all- at least take some of our onshores as well you jaffle eating bastards.

surf rides

2011-08-01T00:27:00.000-07:00

Admittedly for most of us the ride to the beach is probably along the lines of a 10 year old Corolla with a missing hubcap, or at best something in the 'modern, reliable and a bit mundane but keeps the significant other happy' range (or a dented black truck if you're me). Still, it can't hurt to dream. The bottom one would be the sort of thing you could do a trip in down the coast of Peru, or Morocco, or some Scandinavian spot, and do it in style. The Bucky Fullermobile might want a bit more forgiving roads, but would look mighty good cruising the Basque country for instance, especially given how many bottles of Patxaran you could stash in the back.

Fins Free & Flying

2011-07-27T22:57:00.000-07:00

Mark Thomson. Photo by Hilton Dawes.

Classic, the best surf photo I've seen in a donkey's age, and the craft is a surfmat. Mark Thomson charging hard, and given the man's commitment to serious down-the-line speed, this is some g-force in action. Tommo knows his way around a surf vehicle too, he builds and rides incredible high tech carbon fibre boards with the same level of intensity he puts into the mat riding, as the photo below shows.

I'm not sure if I'm seeing more surfmat stuff on the internet because more people are riding them, or if more people are riding them because they're on the internet more. Either way it's a grand thing- proning it with handplane, paipo or mat is obviously the way to a more fulfilled and enjoyable surfing life given how fast people who are willing to try such devices become obsessed. You can see the positive effects of mats at 23 Breaths and more of Mark Thomson's magic at Krypt. Slide on.

Go Speedracer!

2011-07-24T00:44:00.000-07:00

I know I just posted a bunch of Jeff Beck's boards and raved about them, but then he did this for a guy in Japan. Definitely a picture/1000 words situation but I will tell you it's 5'6", handmilled redwood skin, redwood tail blocks and redwood/balsa fins. Outrageously stunning.

This is the Jeff Ho board.

2011-07-21T00:43:00.001-07:00

The shape you can get should you want a pretty awesome all-rounder from a Los Angeles legend. This one belongs to Paul, and he likes it:

"the Jeff Ho Sarlo model is a yes. I've ridden it four days in a row now. I freaked on all that foam, but Jeff compensates for it by using an extended hard edge and particular concaves. It gets in early and holds in big bu bombs. I put Simon Future Fins in it and they seem right. It snaps off the top and throws good spray for a quad. I did outrun a couple BIG waves, falling on my butt. I was surprised, though, by the board's functionality in overhead so cal surf."

Paul has a quiver most people reading this would froth over- Pavel, Seebold, Mackie and so on, so he definitely knows his way around a good board. If you want one of Jeff's board's yourself, just email info @ foamandfunction.com and we'll set you up. Feeling very enthused by surfboards today as I managed a trip to small but very fun waves near to Rincon. Wonderful way to spend a summer's day believe me.

Waves

2011-07-18T09:16:00.001-07:00

Some more photos from Mick Mackie- the lucky bastard, it's 2 foot and crumbly here. No wonder he surfs as well as he does and shapes the boards he does. He should be getting some sort of kickback from the Australian Board of Tourism for his work because these shots make me want to buy an airline ticket.

More Surfboards (Mackie this time)

2011-07-15T00:40:00.001-07:00

Mackie S-deck stubbie, volan deck patch and 2+1 setup with one of Mick's hand foiled flexfins for the box. Very ,very nice indeed. The fish is the EPS sidecut that's here and for sale at $800. 6', high performance shape with some float. A board than can honestly be described as 'epic'.

An Addenda- If you'd like one of those custom stubs they run $875 with fins etc. Sweet indeed.

Ninelights

2011-07-11T10:26:00.001-07:00

Some surfboards built by another Jeff, Mr. Beck of HB this time. I've made quite a few visits to his workspace (Jeff very kindly has assumed the role of ding repair guy for me which is great because he's brilliant at it and probably good for him as it's steady work given how often I knock chunks out of boards) and I'm always blown away by what he's quietly doing there. He builds with compsand construction, the board is shaped from EPS and then a skin of wood is vacuum bagged onto the shape (usually cedar and poplar it seems) and Jeff shapes down the rails and nose & tail blocks. The result is an absolutely beautiful looking board (the work on the tails is pretty stunning), but it's also a really functional ride. I had a loaner twin fin for a while and completely fell in love with the feel. The board had the float and general feel of an EPS board, but the skin obviously makes it a bit heavier which in our often wind hacked waves makes things much nicer. What really hooked me was the feel of the board underfoot- solid like a PU/PE board but with a sort of twangy stiffness it that makes sense- like hard racing shocks on a car, it gave when it needed to give. Totally sold me on the construction, and Jeff's shapes are great. As nice as these stubs are, the modern twin shape is the business. He's here if you want to check his stuff out, and it's well worth doing so. These guys who are actually building interesting boards rather than just finish shaping what a machine pops out are a small gang, but it's them who will drive the progress of surf design forward.

Shirts For Summer

2011-07-06T13:34:00.001-07:00

Yeah, it's summer. It's getting hot and the waves are tiny. You can however look mighty suave at any barbeques, beach days or what have you with a new t-shirt. The range above is the Hydrospiral, the Mackie and the Casper (ladies sizes only sorry). There's the full selection here although size and colour options are getting limited. Price is $25, shipping included to make it simple. Email the usual address- info @ foamandfunction.com and we'll set you up.

The Highly Efficient Jeff Ho

2011-07-02T10:03:00.001-07:00

The Jeff Ho/Zephyr Designs mission is shaping up to be utterly simple and even quite fun. Jeff is really happy to be doing some boards, and they are getting finished quickly and nicely. For those who missed it, this is the deal- Dogtown Legend Jeff Ho, not a man who is easy to track down and order a board from, is building a run of his current favourite shape for those who want one. It's the design that Jeff has worked on over the last few years with input from Allen Sarlo and a core of the Venice crew. Things being as old school as they are with Jeff, I don't have a photo of the shape. It's not either of the above- there you have Jeff's Beachbreak fish shape (I surfed one of those literally into pieces, totally fun board and I credit it and Derek Hynd in 'Litmus' with triggering my fish obsession which is still going strong today) and some of Jeff's work in the current 'Art In The Streets' show at the Geffen Contemporary in lovely downtown LA. (Photo stolen from surfsister- thanks!)I will have photos of what he's actually building in the next few days however, as Tall Paul's board is done and getting picked up any time now. Best of all, these things are at non-collectors prices- $850 or thereabouts. Yes, I'm frothing over what is to most of you probably just some local underground guy from my adopted surf spot, but seriously- this guy makes boards that are aesthetically, historically and functionally brilliant. I'm honored to be doing the point man work for Jeff. Email info@foamandfunction.com if you're interested.

Nice (Wall) Rack

2011-06-29T23:41:00.000-07:00

So the nice people at Nice Racks sent me a wall rack to try out, which on looking at the stack of boards in the corner of the Child's room and with the summer visit fast approaching, seemed like a good idea. It duly showed up and looked quite clever, a nice modular system where you can keep adding racks if you want. I'll admit to thinking it might be a little lightweight and it definitely seemed just waaay too easy to set up. Luckily, it was indeed lightweight simply because it was plastic, and it was ridiculously quick to install, under 10 minutes even with a lot of double and triple checking placement and straightness. The thing is great, and best of all it's made from 100% recycled plastic and it's made in the USA, a rare claim these days. Excuse my photos (the top two), it's not easy to make a black wallrack look exciting, so I went for a bit of colour with a couple of showboat boards. You'd think that after all this time working with Glen Friedman, Stecyk, Kidman, Jamie Brisick, Joe Curren and so on I'd have picked up some photography skills, but no. Trefz would probably have shot it with a Hasselblad and some grainy b&w film and made it look great, so just try to imagine that. Very nice Rack though.

Los Angeles History

2011-06-27T01:48:00.001-07:00

Humble beginnings indeed.

Bonzer!

2011-06-22T10:54:00.001-07:00

One of Mackie's boards; 7', lightly used and $700 will have the thing in the U.S. for you. He's on a roll is young Mick, the stuff he's been building of late is stunning. Email info @ foamandfunction.com with inquiries, comments and so on.

Trefz & Mulcoy

2011-06-20T10:37:00.001-07:00

Go here and you can check out a very awesome edit of Josh Mulcoy surfing that was made by Patrick Trefz. Apparently it's in some deal put together by Taylor Steele where you, the punter gets to choose what sections go in his next movie. If you vote for Josh it'd be great because he's a lovely bloke, the surfing and clip are wonderful and how great would it be to hear Gil Scott-Heron in a corpo surf movie?

Flex Path pt5- Futro

2011-06-17T00:19:00.001-07:00

This is where it's been taking Mackie. EPS/Epoxy with uni directional carbon fibre, concaves, keels. He'll make you one if you want.

The Winner Is....

2011-06-14T23:54:00.000-07:00

I've gone on about how good 'Lost In The Ether' is for a while now, and it's not because Andrew's a mate, or he owes me money (actually, I think I owe him money) or some such consideration. It's because it really is an exceptional film. It seems other people think so too, as it just won the Jury Prize for Best Feature at the Surfilm Festibal in San Sebastian. Here's how they described it:

'The latest film by the versatile Australian artist –his fifth, which also comes in the shape of an exquisite book– explores the process of surfboard shaping and how the final outcome is a manifestation of the shapers themselves. Kidman tracks down the single fin board that a young Michael Peterson shaped, the one he rode on that cutback he did on Morning of the Earth.'

Sums it up nicely I'd say, and they don't know the half of versatile- he's officially a family man, a shreddy ripper, a home brew wizard and now an award winning Director- but I bet he still has to do the dishes. Nice work young Kidman, and the film is for sale here.

Jeff Ho Surfboards For Sale

2011-06-12T23:38:00.001-07:00

The word has come down from Jeff Ho that he's going to shape a run of his boards- the model that Alan Sarlo has been riding at Malibu. Basically a wider squash tail shape, tri or quad and clear sanded. He's done a few and they've been ridden and liked at Malibu and in the old stomping grounds of Venice. Naturally there's no decent picture of the board, but it is the shape Sarlo is riding in the clip a few posts back, and it definitely seems to be working for him. Best of all, at $850 the price is reasonable, especially for a shaper of Jeff's caliber and history. Email info @ foamandfunction if you're interested. And a disclaimer- Jeff is of a mercurical nature so no guarantee how long this deal may last. We'll do our best though.

Soapy Simmons For Sale

2011-06-07T10:51:00.001-07:00

A couple of takes on that old workhorse the mini Simmons. First up is a pretty classic 5'6" Mackie built for Skater Andy down in the southerly latitudes. By all accounts Andy's a skilled rider of the little wheeled boards, so this little finned one is going to be a lot of fun for him I believe. Next is a range of Tyler Warren shaped beauties form the recent Loft 9 shows. Tyler's been involved with the Hydrodynamica project from early on and has ridden all manner of RK's experiments and I have no doubt that these are some fun and functional boards. If you're interested in one (and there's any left) just email rk@hydrodynamica.com. If you want any sort of Mackie, email info@foamandfunction.com. There's a flurry of board production happening for summer it seems, so check back as there will be nice stuff popping up here over the next few weeks.

Point Never #3

2011-06-04T09:55:00.001-07:00

A new issue of Point Never from Jim Newitt. Again, it's a totally minimal and lovely little zine. 30 pages or so of simplicity in a world of image overload. Very taken with Marissa Textor's hyper realist pencil drawings. Six bucks gets you a copy, shipping included, simply email info @ foamandfunction.com.

Downhill With The Girls

2011-06-01T08:47:00.000-07:00

Carving the Mountains from Juan Rayos on Vimeo.

Not only is this filmed beautifully, the fun these kids are having is sort of contagious- it's hard not to smile at the simple joy of rolling downhill. No idea what Juan Rayos' story is, but I've seen a few clips he's shot with this crew of Madrid longboarders and they've all been good. His other clips on Vimeo are definitely worth checking out.

An aside for all our Australian friends:
Just in case you hadn't seen, young Andrew Kidman and band are out playing their 'spinifex surf rock' live, with projections from his and Trefz's latest films as a bonus. Here's where to go:

Thursday 2nd – The Heritage Hotel, Thirroul
Tickets from venue website | http://www.heritagehotel.com.au/ | Ph 02 4284 5884

Friday 3rd & Saturday 4th, The Boatshed, Manly
Tickets from Heritage Surf Shop| http://www.heritagesurfaustralia.com/ | Ph 02 9977 7623

Sunday 5th, The Vanguard, Newtown
Tickets from venue website | http://www.thevanguard.com.au/ | Ph 02 9550 3666

JULY, 2011
Friday 1st, The Buddah Bar, Byron Bay
Tickets from the band’s website http://www.byronbaybrewery.com.au/

Saturday 2nd, The Coolangatta Hotel, Surfers Paradise
Tickets from venue website | http://www.thecoolyhotel.com.au/ | Ph 07 55 896 888

Friday 8th, The Noosa Surf Club, Noosa
Tickets from Solace Surf, Noosa | Ph 07 54470 2606

Saturday 16th, The Powerhouse Museum, Brisbane
Tickets from band’s website | http://www.brisbanepowerhouse.org

Surfboards by Royal

2011-05-29T10:23:00.000-07:00

Rob Royal lives between the Bahamas and the UK at the moment, and he builds some highly interesting looking surfboards. He's been a great proponent of the sidecut design, and seems to really like playing with the concepts of modernized twin fin designs, all of which are very good things. Now he's done this quad with a Simmons bloodline, and I'm utterly impressed. Those English boys have some nice stuff bubbling away over there....

Mackie by Kidman

2011-05-25T23:47:00.000-07:00

Asymmetric channels, a sidecut and some lovely keels. I have an idea for what could be done with keels like those, and as soon as the R&D budget gets sorted out it'll be on.
There's a nice little selection of 'Lost In The Ether' images here, then get the film here, you won't regret it.

Sarlo Shoots The Pier

2011-05-23T09:15:00.000-07:00

Saturday night I run into Jeff Ho and have a nice hang. He told me Malibu had been good that morning on the South swell and he'd seen someone shoot the pier on what seemed to be one of his boards, then realized it was Allen Sarlo. Jeff thought he should have been riding a bigger board.
Monday morning, someone sends me a link to the above footage. The internet can be a frightening place sometimes.

Denevan & Baikal

2011-05-22T00:07:00.000-07:00

Apparently this is Jim Denevan's art on the surface of Lake Baikal. Quite lovely and amazing to see, and that's a nice yurt he has going there. I'd love to hear some of the stories behind this one. Jim's beach art is featured, of course, in Patrick Trefz's film 'Thread'. And in his book 'Thread' which you can get from us for a mere $30 by emailing us at info @ foamandfunction.com. It may seem like I'm now working for Trefz (which in a way I seem to be, unpaid of course but that's how it works) but I hadn't seen these photos until yesterday and his films really are quite good, well worth you investigating if you haven't already done so.

An update: I love it when the comments are better than the post- thanks to Andrew Kidman I can steer you here which has some stunning photos and footage from this project.

Simmons & Curren & Beamish

2011-05-18T22:59:00.001-07:00

Christian Beamish & Boards, photo by Patrick Trefz from the film 'Idiosyncrasies'

Beamish built these boards to ride Mavericks on after some study of original big wave boards made by Pat Curren & Bob Simmons. The whole process and result is documented in Trefz's film Idiosyncrasies and is well worth a look at.

Schaaf & The Unicorn

2011-05-14T21:33:00.000-07:00

Many of you with a fondness for the skateboarding may remember Max Schaaf. Always a skater who's style I liked and despite aging along with the rest of us, he's still doing some fine stuff. He tinkers with motorbikes and has an entertaining blog along those lines called 4Q, mostly bikes, some skateboarding and he managed to find this quite excellent surfboard. Nicely done Mr. Schaaf.

MP

2011-05-11T00:02:00.000-07:00

It's amazing how well and intuitively this man built surfboards, and how much impact his designs have had. Still by Kidman from 'Lost In The Ether', logo by MP, plate by Gerry Wedd.

Tijuana Makes Me Happy

2011-05-07T22:56:00.000-07:00

Just saw these guys, they were brilliant. How often do you go to a show where the sousaphone player gets the girls screaming when he steps up to solo? ¡maravilloso!

Gentemstik's 'First Track'

2011-05-04T12:09:00.001-07:00

'The First Track' is an impressive looking photobook put together by Taro Tamai and his snowsurf colleagues at Gentemstik. Unfortunately, it's probably not the easiest thing to get hold of (all the good stuff involves a little work otherwise it wouldn't be as good really) but you could try emailing them at worldwide@gentemstick.com and see what's up. No idea about price, but whatever that is it looks worth every yen.

Two Weeks by J. Abegg

2011-05-02T23:44:00.001-07:00

Two Weeks... An experience by Johnny Abegg (film) from Johnny Abegg Films on Vimeo.

Johnny Abegg has posted a 20 minute version of his latest cinematic effort. Enjoy, and feel free to purchase his limited, entertaining and quite mad "___". $30 for the DVD/zine version, $50 for the DVD/book. All signed and numbered. As always, info @ foamandfunction.com to purchase, ask questions or just tell us something we should know.

summer will follow...

2011-04-30T00:27:00.000-07:00

It's undeniably spring here in SoCal, the weather has turned lovely, the sun is out, the onshores blow and the swell is barely there. Still, we do have the solace of avocados ripening, like this beauty from my mate Greg's Mum's backyard tree. The Mackie board in the previous post weighs in at 5lb 12oz without fins and somehow I find it very satisfying that I have an avocado that's a 5th of the weight of a 6' surfboard. I also have t-shirts for the impending summer, although stocks are dwindling. Here's a selection of favourites still available in a sampling of the colours available. $25 each, shipping included. The Casper shirts are womens' sizes only and only in that blue, and there's womens' sizes in most of these other designs too. info @ foamandfunction.com if you're interested.

Brand New Mackie HP Fish For Sale

2011-04-25T10:55:00.000-07:00

This whole "Hey. let's make Mick's boards available in the US' deal is becoming a bit of a nightmare. Nothing to do with Mick, he's a lovely bloke and a pleasure to work with. Boards are done when he says they will be and his turnaround is pretty quick for a one man hand shaping operation, even when I get the 'backed up a few weeks, the surf's been good' message. He makes it all very easy, the quality is great and his design sense is inspiring and progressive. Which is where the problem lies. I have no idea what's causing it, maybe the change of seasons down there, maybe the construction on the new shopping centre going up in Ulladulla has stirred something into the air, but the last run of boards has been mind-blowing, and now this has turned up and I want to keep it. I kept the last one that came though, so I can't keep this, but I want it. 6' x 20" x 2 5/8" EPS sidecut fish. Soooo insanely nice under the arm. Totally high performance, foam where you need it but gone where you don't, a bit of thickness in the tail but a lot less than on that quad and a very hooky side cut outline. Yeah, it's good. Comes with FCS boxes and a set of black FK-2 hexcore keels. $800, info @ foamandfunction.com for inquiries. Unless I cave and wax it up. Actually, I think this Mackie deal was all Kidman's idea so it's actually his fault I'm broke and my kid's room is full surfboards. I feel better now.
A sidebar on Mackie too- he hand shapes these boards so unlike someone who's dealing with a close tolerance blank popped out of a machine, he can tweak what you want- more thickness and a quad setup? Not a problem. This board but 5'8" and an inch wider? Can do but it might look a bit odd. If you want a custom board we can do it and it will be amazing.

Sage Joske via 'Lost In The Ether'

2011-04-23T01:18:00.001-07:00

Sage Joske is a young Australian surfer/shaper and truly a kid who makes me believe the current upwelling of interest in non 'mainstream' shapes is just the beginning. He and his dad Paul were very early proponents of the interest in ancient Hawaiian boards and Sage shapes both classic and futuristic stuff under his Valla Saltwater Constructs label.
The screen images are of Sage in Andrew Kidman's 'Lost In The Ether' film and the montage is Kidman photos ofof Sage riding one his Valla epoxy fish.

And further- as DL kindly points out there's a great Sage interview at Phoresia, which is a site well worth your attention and I've been remiss in not adding it to the links until now.

Limey Widowmaker

2011-04-18T09:44:00.001-07:00

Aforementioned britisher who's getting the Mackie sidecut is doing alright as he also apparently just got this. It's an absolutely classic looking widowmaker in the Parmenter/Kidman vein from Adrian at Fluid Juice Surfboards in the UK. Many of you may shrug and pass on to some resin tinted confection, but you should give this board a serious glance. It's really quite a lovely thing, clean, functional and utterly stylish in it's simplicity. It conjures images of Central Cal. in the fall for me, cold green water and a solid reef breaking with no one around. Top marks for the logoless clear action too.

The Goods, from Mick Mackie

2011-04-15T09:06:00.001-07:00

The surfboard cup runneth over as it were. I just sent a very nice sidecut twin to a luckly gent in the UK, there's an EPS twin coming to replace it, finally a fun little session (on the EPS quad Mick made, still absolutely frothing over that board) and to top it off there's these artfully posed beauties. That stub (6' I think) looks quite tidy, and I'm still very enamored by that quad stinger. All these boards were hand shaped by Mick, and that's how he does it all. He will build you any thing you want custom so if you're interested, email info @ foamandfunction.com. These are very, very fine surfboards. And that's just the Mackie stuff, a visit to Jeff Beck was made and there is some utterly brilliant stuff being cooked up in his little bay of surf delights. More on that when he's got it finished and dialed in, but it's entertaining times all round.

More Legends

2011-04-12T23:29:00.001-07:00

Lance Mountain

Lance

Steve Caballero & Lance

Steve

Rodney Mullen & Minor Threat, Kenter Canyon

Given the success of the Dogtown documentary, it only made sense that Bones Brigade one wouldn't be far away. It has the potential of being highly entertaining, and personally I think it's when Peralta was really hitting his stride. He and Craig Stecyk created some serious cultural impact in those days. Courtesy of Glen E. Friedman, here's some shots from the interviews as well as some of Glen's classic back in the day shots. Lance Mountain was and is the man.

Legends

2011-04-09T10:27:00.001-07:00

The gent in the white shirt is Mr. Floyd Smith of Gordon & Smith, and because the universe is a random place, he was in Ulladulla NSW visiting a friend and signing some old boards. How's that single fin?

Jay Boy Book

2011-04-06T21:20:00.001-07:00

In one of those moments of exceptional coolness, we've got the hookup to make copies of the 'Jay Boy' book available thanks to Mike Pool King. It's a collection of mostly black and white images from the archives of Kent Sherwood, Jay Adams' stepfather and all around Venice icon. The selection is amazing, Jay and the young Dogtown crew (Alva, Baby Paul, Shogo etc) skating and surfing the LA basin in the pre Dogtown days, the last gasp of hippie innocence and feral youth amongst the fast collapsing Los Angeles backdrop. Jay provides captions and a pretty classic dialog for the images, and it's all in all a lovely book. $20 + $2 shipping, email info @ foamandfunction to order or query.

John, by Mick

2011-04-03T23:09:00.000-07:00

Patagonia teamrider Johnny Abegg going left! from Little House Productions on Vimeo.

J. Abegg surfing, shot by M. Waters. Both great blokes who have good movies out.

surfsnow

2011-03-30T16:04:00.000-07:00

A few more from Mick Mackie who has the antipodean winter set up nicely organized. Here's his Gentemstik snow quiver, the winter singlefins for the surf quiver and a righteous looking quad stinger. It's for sale too, $800 in Australia, $900 in the US for whoever is quickest. info @ foamandfunction.com for inquiries.

A Note: That quad is 5'7" x 19.5" x 2.5"- someone's going to get a screamer of a board for summer waves in that thing

Simmons Celebration

2011-03-28T09:59:00.001-07:00

It was a good night.....

snowsurf

2011-03-25T11:10:00.001-07:00

I really wasn't kidding about having a swag of great board pictures, and not all of them are for the ocean. This is one that came courtesy of our good friend Kevin Brennan at December Snowskates, part of the whole family of lunatics making sliding devices basically. It's a bindingless powderboard, 48" long with a total skateboard feel to it- nose and tail kick and a deck concave. The grip is EVA (same as the Mackie flextails) and it feels very nice under the foot, at least in my front room. The bottom is waxable P-Tex and has a couple of serious channels which you can almost see in the bottom pic. Yeah, I'm a sucker for any sort of cool board and this stuff would make me want to go where there's snow. This board is for sale- $239, and we will definitely be making a few more of Kevin's design's available in the near future. I'm stoked, we are now officially surf/skate/snow!

panoply of artistic wonder

2011-03-23T23:47:00.000-07:00

What a life, in the space of 1 week I will have hung with NorCal genius in the form of Mr. Joe Curren, the central cal genius which is Steiny and on Saturday the mighty RT. This is why we are involved in surfing: the companionship of like minded and more talented folks (it's certainly not the money). Speaking of not the money, I will be there in full flight at the merch table. T-shirts, books etc. Feel free to stop by, check out the fantastic array of Simmons related ephemera and maybe go home with an acquisition or two. Your spending is not going to supporting a casual lifestyle (there's many day jobs involved here) but is put back into what ever project is next. (Not that I'd object to becoming some sort of surf culture oligarch- I'd expect nothing too obscene like multi million dollar yachts or football teams- a nice central coast spread with a wave or two out front would be fine, a shed full of exceptional surf boards and maybe a few russian ballerinas and/or up and coming bollywood actresses to keep things interesting, I'd invite you all over I swear...)

Oh, a footnote. Someone from Iceland looked at this blog. I think that's really cool, and if you're that person and you look again, drop an email- I'd love to know what your deal is.

Harmless Neighbourhood Eccentrics

2011-03-21T23:52:00.001-07:00

Santa Cruz. It's a really great town. I like the people, especially Steiny and Trefz. I like the surf, and I liked the surfboard show. Lots of nice people came by and looked at boards, and we had some really good ones. The last two in this post are a pair of 5'2" Twinzers from Larmo, and they are looking for a good home after their appearance in Sacred Craft. Info @ foamandfunction if you're interested in one. More once I'm a bit rested.

Channeled Quad MiniSim and other art

2011-03-17T14:37:00.000-07:00

...or why a custom surfboard is your best option. East Coast Stan, a gent of obvious taste and amazing patience wanted a mini Sim, bounced a few ideas around and then left the assemblage to Hank Warner. (Stan already has a solid grounding in Hank's quality rides) This is what happened, and it's good- it even excited Mackie. The boards for Sacred Craft are haphazardly piled in the front room and are annoying the dog, so I'm ready to go. Come on by if you're in the neighbourhood and we'll be at the demo session at Cowell's on Sunday AM (possibly in somewhat shakey form depending on how fired up Trefz is) If you're down here in the LA region, go by Track 16 Gallery at the Bergamot Station on Saturday night. Jeff Ho has a pretty cool little part in the new show there, 'Stoked & Broke' will be screening and it'll be a good time. More Jeff stuff coming up soon too- there's a lot on the boil which is nice in times as troubled as these.

Flex Path pt4-Mackie Space Stik

2011-03-15T09:29:00.001-07:00

The second generation model. Mick says a bit more foam and it goes like the proverbial rocket, he can barely hang on. In the last day I have collected such a wealth of photos of incredible boards that it's going to be all on here for a while. Stay tuned.....

Some waves, elsewhere

2011-03-13T09:40:00.001-07:00

other coast (Thanks Jamie)

Far

Near

Readers rides. There's hope for some of these where I'm at this week too....

Santa Cruz Sacred Craft Next Week

2011-03-10T22:51:00.000-08:00

A trip north, a weekend of surfboards in Santa Cruz, a collection of good folks (including Trefz and Joe Curren who will be exhibiting in the Artists Lounge)- why wouldn't we go? If you're in the area come on by, it'll be fun and we will have some high style surfboards. An assortment of Mackies naturally, a surprise or two from the December Snowskates guys, the Ninelights compsand I'm not rushing to give back to Jeff and a few of the latest from Ekstrom and the Swift boys, including some of these very cool Hydroflex boards. Cutting edge tech and mad design- it gets no better.

Flex Path pt3- Winterstik inspired

2011-03-07T09:44:00.000-08:00

For reasons known only to himself, Mick Mackie decided to send this board up. It's one of the original Winterstik inspired experiments that have heavily influenced his shaping trajectory (as featured beautifully in Kidman's new film), and it's around 10 years old which makes it even more mad and amazing. A decade ago most people were still getting their heads around traditional fish and Mick was already this far out there? Brilliant. Despite being a little battered and used as a notepad for Mick's observations and instructions, the idea is to get it set up again, this time with a set of Simmons keels out on the pins, and under the feet of some of the kids. Ekstrom has volunteered to refin it (if there's a man who knows about board experiments it's Carl Ekstrom) and hopefully we'll get Ryan Burch on it amongst others. The board will undoubtedly be coming on any surf related mission I make too, so pictures will follow I hope. Thanks for sharing it Mick.

Flex Path pt2- Nat Young and the Winterstik

2011-03-03T09:42:00.000-08:00

Nat Young rides the Winterstick
Uploaded by messire. - Discover the latest sports and extreme videos.

This odd and wonderful little clip came via Kevin Brennan of the excellent Snowskates blog. Nat Young in the snow, seriously old school bindings and Milovich ripping it up. Brilliant stuff. KB builds these mad dual deck skateboards for the winter stuff and is an OG supporter of the Simmons stuff for summer. He built a fantastic asymmetrical skate deck and is now doing asym snowboards. Check his stuff out, it's well cool.